Wednesday, February 20, 2008

South Point - The End of the World


South Point, 12 miles off the main highway, along a single lane black top, one comes to the end of the world, in a manner of speaking. This is the most southern point of the Big Island, at 18 degrees 54 minutes, it is the most southernly point in the United States. And it looks it. A stark, raw wilderness, desolate and foreboding, a place where the only visitor is the wind. (I stole that from Ken Follett).

The huge cliffs drop sharply to the crystal clear blue water. The waves dangerously crashing on the rocks. A kayaker trying to time his approach to land his craft safely on the rocks - at least three attempts before he wedged it in and hopped out.

Also incredible that the surfer dudes snorkel here and spear fish. There were four guys and they had a big, four foot long fish they were putting on ice. "How do they get down there?", I asked. They jump. THEY JUMP! Then they do their reef fishing - the blond guy said after he skewered his fish he came out quickly because he saw four sharks. And he doesn't like sharks. He jumps 100 feet into rocky pounding surf and he's worried about sharks? So then I asked, "How do they come back up?" - there's a ladder and there are pulley systems hanging over the edge to bring people and their small boats back up. Amazing.

As well as these daredevil fishing guys and their sleeping rottweiler there were two more sedate fisher guys sitting in chairs with their lines a couple of hundred feet out in the bay.

The water is so clear here, even from this great height you can see schools of fish in the water below. An awe inspiring place. South Point.

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Sunday, February 17, 2008

This Diverse Island

Not only is there a rich diversity in the people, who are decedents of various cultures and races; Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Filipino, Spanish, and Portuguese, but there is diversity of climate and vegetation as well. Open grasslands around Waimea, desert scrub in the low dry Kohala region, tropical rain forests in upper Hilo and Kona, pine forests near Honoka'a and so on an so on.
  • The Big Island boasts"...eleven of the 14 known climate zones in the world - from desert lavascapes to tropical rain forests to beaches to snow on the peaks of 14,000 foot volcanoes..."
So it is not surprising we attended a Texas-type rodeo around the corner from our house. The Paniolo, were Spanish cowboys brought here to teach the Hawaiians ranching skills; they, and the Hawaiian cowboys, rode the range on the Parker Ranch ( and many other small ranches) for the past 150 years . At one time, the Parker ranch was the biggest cattle ranch in all of the United States. The town of Waimea is in the center of the Parker estate and still has a western flavour. Mike and Betty said when they first moved here in the 80's cowboys were still seen riding horseback in town.

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Saturday, February 16, 2008

Dogs

People are always so interested when we take cute gentle little Denver out for walks in town; the response to him is beyond what we expect. Kids come over to him, even adults are interested. It seems dogs are not kept as house pets here. To have a house dog is an anomaly because they consider dogs to be work animals. This is Parker Ranch territory where cattle dogs tend to the herd, guard dogs protect your property, and hunting dogs head up the mountain with their gun and bow totten' masters. Pick-up trucks can be seen with dogs in the back almost everywhere we go in this area - and these are NOT your nice little companion animals - these are tough, mangy, mean looking curs.

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Lazy Day

We had planned to head up Mauna Kea mountain to the secluded Hakalau Forest and Bird Sanctuary. It's the last refuge of native Hawai'i Island species and is aggressively protected. After phoning the National Wildlife Reserve in Hilo, giving them all our personal information, getting the combination of the lock on the gate and hearing all problems in driving two hours along the gravel roads to the 5,000 foot level, the restrictions on use of the area, and how to stay out of the way of hunters on the adjacent land, we still decided it would be worth the drive up. Well, we were wrong.

After an hour of driving on the infamous, but now very much improved, Saddle Road, we turned up the Mauna Kea access road but drove right past the gravel path that turned out to be the road we were looking for. After asking the other solitary person on this desolate stretch of road we headed back and took that "road" towards the refuge. When we travelled two miles on this washed out bumpy cattle path of a "road" we knew we could not drive the total 16 miles in and 16 miles back out. We were almost on "top of the world" in a most deserted uninhabited open area - we headed back down, past some guys setting up to "para-glide" off the hills,

We came back to town, loaded up with groceries for the week and had our picnic lunch outside in the back yard on the lanai. Sue will spend the afternoon happily tending to Betty's garden. So much for our Bird Refuge adventure.

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Friday, February 15, 2008

Hilo- The Wet Side of the Island

We've been spending our days at the beaches on the dry Kohala coast. Today we headed to Hilo, the wet side, where the tropical rain forests and all the rivers run down from the mountains. We lucked into a surprisingly bright sunny day and really enjoyed the sites. First we went to the famed "Rainbow Falls" a water fall that creates it's own rainbow. The majestic waters cascade down from pools of churned-up water called the "Boiling Pots". Huge Banyon trees grow in the jungles alongside the river. We see gigantic vegetation here that dwarfs what we know as tropical plants in our climate.


After Hilo we headed to The Hawaiian Tropical Botanical Gardens.

This privately
run nature preserve was created by a San Francisco couple, Dan and Pauline Lutkenhouse, who bought the valley in 1977 and restored it to a showcase of natural beauty.

Because t
his is one of the few places on the islands inhabited by the non-native mosquito it is necessary to put on insect repellent when walking the trails through the jungle preserve. Many species of Pacific island tropical flowers and trees have been planted and maintained here even if they're not all indigenous to Hawai'i. A two hour walk through the area yields photo opportunity after photo opportunity. Too many to show here but each as beautiful as the next. From the Onomea water falls to the multi-coloured orchids that thrive in the environment - just magnificent!

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A malasa.. what?



On the pretext of driving to Hilo to see the sites we headed south on the eastern (wet) side of the island past the famous TEX DRIVE IN - we've been there before and we knew what we were doing and where we were going but wouldn't admit it. You see, the calories don't count if you don't talk about it, right? TEX, the home of the famous Big Island: Malasada.

  • Malasada (n) : a puffy filled donut without a hole that is deep-fried, rolled in sugar and best eaten while hot. Malasadas are a Portuguese snack introduced by workers imported for cane and pineapple production.
As we drove by - we decided we'd just drop in for one. And we were good - just had one. I had a Strawberry-Guava and Sue had a Chocolate. Boy, they're so bad for you - but so good. Well, we did head down to Hilo and we did catch the sites so I'll never have to admit we did it for the malasadas.

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Wednesday, February 13, 2008

YABB (yet another beautiful beach)





Waialea Beach is another of the little publicized island beaches with no highway signs directing visitors, who would never know it was there, but just a short drive off the "19". It had nice modern facilities, showers, and rest rooms. Walk a few steps past the parking area and you're into a scene out of the Castaway movie. The waves breaking gigantic white spray over the black lava rocks just knocks your socks off. On top of all that at the sides of the cove there was good snorkeling (but nothing like Kahalu'u Bay) ; there also were well shaded areas under the coastal pine trees where we could relax, protected from the blazing tropical sun. And there was Sue, boogie boarding in the breakers with the best of them. Nice day. Now, back home to do laundry.

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Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Tropical? This is ... TROPICAL?

When we think of Hawai'i and the word "skiing", "water skiing" probably comes to mind but downhill skiing?, snowboarding?, cross country skiing? We'd think not. But we'd be wrong. Betty's friend Carol just joined us after dinner and told us about her day skiing on Mauna Kea this weekend. We were fascinated. Skiing in Hawai'i! Amazing. We knew the top of Mauna Kea at 14,000 feet, the site of eight of the world's best large celestial telescope observatories, is snow covered most of the winter. But we thought that's all; there are no lifts or facilities so how do they get back up? They use pickup trucks as the mode of transportation. A group of people drive up; one buddy drives the truck back down and waits for the group and up you go again. Many of the local surfers snowboard in the morning then head down to the shore and finish the day riding waves on the beach. WOW! Carol said there was a lot of snow and it was like Spring skiing, a bit slushy by later in the day. And here's the really interesting part. Ski boots explode up there! Well, expand. I guess the air-filled plastic foam liners that are created at sea level expand, like balloons, in the thinner air at the 14,000 foot altitude and either the boots split apart or painfully squeeze your feet. Skiing in Hawai'i, who'd a' thunk it?

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Monday, February 11, 2008

Luca Brasi sleeps with the fishes; We Snorkel!

Beautiful Kahalu'u Bay is a shallow reef filled bay protected by a breakwater wall. The snorkeling is fantastic. Just off the main coastal road right in Kona the easily accessible beach is usually crowded but the payoff is snorkeling among the many marvelous tropical fish that inhabit the reef. The temperature was about 81 degrees F under clear blue sky. There were too many species to remember - all shapes and colours. It was as if we were swimming inside a tropical aquarium. Then after four hours of baking in the sun we headed back up the mountain to cool, cloudy, and rainy,Waimea. The clouds roll in here in the afternoon and are usually accompanied by an inspirational rainbow. The climate changes quickly as you travel even a short distance. It is interesting how from one place to another on the island the weather can be strikingly different.

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Sunday, February 10, 2008

A Slice of Paradise

A quiet Sunday. After a nice brunch with Mike and Betty at a beautiful local restaurant on the historic Parker Ranch property we headed down to the beach for the afternoon. Mike, (Sue's brother), Denver the dog, Sue and I went to Mau'mae Beach. This is a secluded beach accessible only after a fair hike from another beach parking lot. The walk is through a strange looking forest - something out of The Wizard of Oz. Unfortunately the once fascinating area has been decimated by a fire. In this tropical climate I expect the vegetation will return but not in our generation.

No tourists would know about the prize at the end of this trail and many locals do not trouble themselves to get there. There were only three or four other groups around. The warm gentle waves in the protected cove lap up onto beautiful white sand. What a great afternoon. Blue sky, warm breeze, fantastic scenery. Doesn't get better than this.

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Friday, February 8, 2008

Better than radar


So, yesterday we're headed to the beach driving along The Queen Kaahumanu Highway (Highway 19) along the western, dry-side, Kohala coast. Very hot, low and open. Nothing around but empty mile after empty mile of lava fields. Then I spot on the left hand shoulder a dark SUV, unmarked but with police lights on it. Check my speed, yep only a hair over the double nickel (55 MPH) but I am being passed by a red Dodge Magnum (a popular tourist rental) going at a high rate of speed. In my rear view mirror I see the cop's SUV start up and peal a "U turn" into our lane and from a half mile or so back start gaining on us with cars pulling over onto the ample paved shoulder to let him pass, as I do when he catches up. Then, far in the distance ahead he pulls over the Magnum. As we pass by we're shocked to see the cop take the guy down, gun drawn and pointed with two arms extended. Pointed at his head! Slow down, yep slow down. I'm not speeding here.

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Thursday, February 7, 2008

The Whales


Far out in the distance a cloud of spray rises above the ocean. Was that a wave hitting a reef? Then another and another. Whales breaching the surface as they migrate from their Alaskan homes. In the winter months they are here to breed, and calf, before heading back north in the spring. We must have seen at least 20 whales, a large pod swimming off the eastern shore. Mostly we just see the splash of their jumps or a fountain spray from their blow holes. Only once in a while a glimpse of the huge black mass or a fluke re-entering the sea. But it is exciting. Today they were in close and we could see them like in the top photo above. Beautiful! Everyone on the beach points, the binoculars and telephoto lenses come out, and we all stare to the spot. Something nice to know they are there and thriving in this world. (these are not my pictures, just examples of what we actually saw).
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Where have all the birdies gone? (When will we ever learn?)

One would think we would be surrounded by flocks of tropical birds. Sea birds should abound here. But in reality we see only a few sparrow-like birds picking up picnic droppings off the beach and really, little else. A sighting is rare. Sitting out on the back deck here in the town of Waimea, we're surrounded by tropical plants and trees, yet we see far fewer birds than in our snow-covered cedar hedges in Aurora.

What went wrong?
Most of the mammals on the island of Hawaii are feral species; they are not native.
One, the seemingly innocent Indian Mongoose, is as prevalent here as the black squirrel is in Toronto's High Park.

In 1872, W.B. Espeut, a sugar plantation owner in Jamaica, got the idea to introduce the mongoose there in order to keep his rat problem under control. He sailed from Jamaica to Calcutta on a ship aptly called the Merchantman, captured four male and five female mongooses and brought them back across the ocean to Jamaica.

Twenty years later, in a journal article, the enterprising Espeut claimed he was very successful, thereby creating a new Jamaican export for himself. Selling mongooses! When the article reached the sugar cane plantations of Hawaii, the farmers saw an answer to their rat problems. So despite some local dissent, in 1883, the Hawaiian farmers ordered 72 mongooses from the Jamaican. The mongooses were raised on the Big Island and spread amongst the islands. Little did they know or maybe, even worse, they didn't care...

Imagine, He Lied.
Contrary to Mr. Espeut's claims, Mongooses kill very few rats.
Unlike the nocturnal rat, the mongoose is diurnal; they are active during the day! And you can't eat what you don't see. So instead of ridding the islands of night-time rats, the day-time mongooses have found many alternative foodstuff. Only the islands of Lana'i and Kaua'i remained mongoose-free, but on the other islands, the introduction of the little creature has been a disaster of epic proportions.

Over Easy or Scrambled?
Among many other delicaci
es, they loved the plentiful bounty of the local bird eggs. Mongooses love eggs. They throw the eggs against rocks to break them open and then eat them. The mongooses have preyed on not just the eggs but also fledgling and adult native Hawaiian birds, not to mention endangered sea turtle eggs and hatchlings. Within decades the bird population of the Big Island, Oahu, and Maui were devastated. Of course, other human causes such as logging and farming caused loss of habitat and diseases introduced to the islands have also played a part.

Endangered Species
The Hawaiian Islands can be called the endangered species capital of the world - Hawaii has more native endangered species per square mile than anywhere else on the planet. Of the 71 native bird species, 23 are extinct, and 30 are endangered or threatened. The native state bird, the Nene, (an obvious cousin of the Canada goose) had it's population devastated and reduced to about 30 birds on the big Island at one time. Their population has now been protected, reintroduced, and grown but only in significant numbers on the mongoose-free islands.

If one wants to see flocks of tropical birds, you have to head to the island of Kauai where, I am told, the difference is staggering.

Most birds are Ha'ole, like us
The colourful Brazilian red breasted cardinal which can be seen in various areas
around the island is a 1930's introduction and although interesting, like so many of the other recent additions, is not native to Hawai'i.

More species of birds have been introduced here than anywhere else on earth - at least 142 species of birds, from six continents since 1850, many to replace the devastated native populations. Around 54 of these introduced species have established breeding populations on the islands. But they survive only in small numbers and even then mostly only in secluded, little publicized, bird sanctuaries around the islands.

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